THE SERRE-CHEVALIER DOMAINE provides 250km of terrain for all levels of skier at the gateway to the Southern Alps. It’s accessible via flights into Lyon, Grenoble, Marseille, Nice and Turin. After having long been regarded as something of an alternative choice (mainly due to its relatively southern location), Serre Chevalier is finally set to establish itself as a major ski area. It always has been, of course, but with the Compagnie des Alpes now pumping in major investment in lift upgrades and much more, you’re going to be hearing a lot more about ‘Serre Che’ from now on.

The area combines the wealth of varied terrain above Briançon, Chantemerle, Villeneuve and Le Monêtier-les-Bains, along with a series of smaller villages set beside the road from Grenoble, via the legendary Col du Lauteret. Principal attractions are the extent of the terrain on offer, plus the traditional village ambiance of the communities in the valley (although there’s also plenty of apartment accommodation from Club Med, Pierre et Vacances, MGM, etc.). A sound choice for those looking to cover some distance, improve their skills and fitness or try alternative activities like kite-skiing.

Somehow whatever we ’d heard in the past about Serre-Chevalier still didn’t quite add up to a clear picture of what to expect. Some places are like that and, in our experience, all the better for it.

Our sense of adventure begins not long after we’ve escaped from the traffic leaving Grenoble. Dusk is falling fast and the chill air confirms the weather forecasts for more snow overnight. To any seasoned skier the route is an experience in itself, climbing steadily past a succession of inviting signposts to ski stations like Vaujany, Alpe d’Huez and Les Deux-Alpes. Last up is La Grave, where the first flurries of snow announce the final climb towards the 2058m Col du Lauteret. Fortunately we make it without recourse to snow chains, but take it easy on the final long descent into Le Monêtier-les-Bains.

Life in a postcard

The village heart looks a picture, with accumulations of fresh snow everywhere. Next morning we set off in high spirits to see what lies above the broad, freshly-iced valley, heading all the way up to the 2589m Clot Gauthier for the overview which will help us get our bearings. Our efforts are repaid with dazzling views of the peaks of the Parc National des Ecrins stretching to the horizon.

Major lift upgrades are already under way, as Serre Che comes of age.

The snow is also perfect, as we discover on the long series of swoops which eventually brings us down to Villeneuve, a combined vertical drop of around 1200m. This is big mountain skiing, with only the larch forests to remind us that we’re not further north. And the lack of crowds, of course.

The great escape

In fact, there’s more than enough terrain on tap to keep everyone happily spread out. And no-one need feel left out, as we discover after a reviving tartiflette lunch in the Chalet-Hôtel Serre-Ratier mountain restaurant above Chantemerle. Over-indulge and you can take it easy for awhile on undemanding green runs down through the forest. If you’re up for it though, you can head over to explore the terrain above Briançon, with the option of descending (on skis or in a gondola lift) to the town for a shuttle bus back to your base.

Wide, tree-lined return runs to the valley floor.

Plan C, though, is to head back over towards the Monêtier area. From here ‘the quick way down’ is via the black-graded Tabuc piste, which begins as benignly enough as a perfect scenic cruise. So far so good. As we soon discovered, though, it then plunges through a series of much steeper (and frequently moguled) sections, before easing into a long final schusse for home. Now there’s one we won’t forget.

© Roger Moss