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Winter & Ski Home
Winter Activities
All About Ice Climbing
Ice climbing is a challenging but accessible sport which is possible during the coldest winter months in the Alps. Undiscovered Alps Director Sally Guillaume tells us what it’s like to climb a frozen waterfall.
There aren’t many sports that offer quite the same technical, physical and psychological challenges as ice climbing. Hanging by the tip of an ice axe and crampon front points, 20 metres up a temporary ice formation which can change its form and consistency hourly, is not for the faint-hearted. But there's definitely something addictive about it - the burn in your muscles, the sensation of a good ice-axe placement, the achievement of reaching the top... and the sheer magic of being in an otherwise totally inaccessible place among breathtaking scenery.
So, what is ice climbing?
Ice climbing is the act of climbing frozen waterfalls or other ice formations. To be classified as ice-climbing usually indicates that the formation is reasonably vertical (walking over glaciers or low angled snow or ice slopes comes under the category of mountaineering). On an ice climb you rope-up for safety, and climb using specialised crampons and ice-axes.
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What Equipment Do I Need?
Hardware... ice climbing crampons and ice axes
These are usually available to hire in most winter resorts. Some operators and guides also provide the hardware.
There are many different types of ice-axes and crampons to choose from, depending on your level of skill, the type of ice and terrain you are climbing on and personal preference. In basic terms an ice-axe has a double-sided head, with a sharp pick on one side and a hammer or sharp chisel-like tool on the other. When you climb you swing the pick into the ice and then use it as a grip on which to to pull yourself up.
Crampons are sharp metal spikes on a frame, which clip on to your boots and grip into the ice as you walk or climb over it. There are usually two front points which you kick into the ice and then push up onto.
Safety equipment
If you are ice climbing with a company or guide, they will provide the safety equipment including harness and helmet, rope and ice-screws.
Layers of clothing
For ice climbing you need a good pair of rigid mountaineering boots which will take a step-in crampon. These are very expensive but again are usually available to hire in most winter resorts.
You will need to wear several layers of clothing. When you are actually climbing you produce quite a lot of body heat so will need to remove layers. When you stop, add layers again to keep warm. Getting the right gloves is vital. You need gloves that are flexible and have grip, so it is easy to hold the ice axes. They will get wet, so a couple of pairs is good. It's also worth bringing some over-gloves for when you are waiting around in the cold. Your outer layer must be waterproof and ideally stretchy, to make it easier to climb. A balaclava or buff is great for wearing under your helmet, to keep in valuable body heat.
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Who can ice climb?
You don’t need to be superfit to ice climb, nor do you need previous rock-climbing experience, but it is quite a physical sport, so a reasonable level of fitness is an advantage.
There's no real age limit but it is very difficult to find crampons for feet sizes under 36 (European sizes) so bear this in mind if you are planning a family ice-climbing trip.
It's quite a technical sport, and you need to learn how to crampon and place your ice-axes correctly. It's also essential that you learn the rope-work (belaying, placing ice-screws, abseiling etc) and understand the different types of ice, and how stable they, are for safety.
If you have never been ice climbing before, or are still a ‘debutant’, you do need to go with a guide or go on a beginner's course. Here you will learn the essential safety and climbing techniques so that you can make the most of this amazing world, safely and securely.
When can I go ice climbing?
The magical world of frozen waterfalls is only accessible for a few months of the year. In the Alps, the ice can start to be in condition from early- to mid-December and, assuming there aren’t long periods of warm weather, will stay in condition until end of March. Ice-falls on the north faces of mountains stay in condition for longer than south-facing aspects.
The grading system for ice climbs
Ice climbing routes, like climbing and mountaineering terrain, are graded according to difficulty. Each route is given a grade for technical difficulty as well as a general overall 'umph' grade.
Technical difficulty grades:
- Easy, angled ice with no particular problems.
- Slightly steeper than 1, but of good quality with excellent protection available.
- Ice up to around 60 degrees, generally of good quality, with good belays
- Ice up to 70 degrees, good ice and gear
- Ice up to 80 degrees, ice is generally not as good as grade 4, and there may be few opportunities for rest.
- Vertical ice! Ice formations such as overlaps may exist and protection will be limited and difficult to place.
- And onwards - as 6 but longer, harder, poorer ice and less protection.
General overall grades:
- Snow gullies of around 45 degrees or easy ridges. A single ice-axe is all that is usually required, although cornices can present problems. These routes are often used as descent routes by climbers.
- Steeper snow, with potential for short ice pitches. Ridges at this grade would generally be easy scrambles in the summer. A second tool should be carried, and cornices maybe difficult. Any difficulties encountered will generally be short in duration.
- Sustained gullies or ridges, and steeper than grade II routes.
- Routes start to become more technical in nature at this grade, with snowed-up easy rock routes being climbed. Routes will normally contain steep sections of ice, either long sections of between 60-70 degrees or short, vertical steps. On mixed routes, more advanced techniques such as torquing will generally be required.
- Potential for sustained steep ice at 60-70 degrees. Mixed routes could be up to VS summer routes and may require the linking of multiple advanced moves.
- Long vertical sections of ice, sometimes poor in quality and with little chance of rest. Mixed routes will be as for grade V but harder. Mixed routes will be at least VS summer routes.
- As VI but longer and harder. Could include overhanging sections, so strength, stamina and skill are required! VIII onwards As VII but even longer and even harder.
Feature © Sally Guillaume, Undiscovered Alps
Sally Guillaume is the owner and director of Undiscovered Alps, specialising in adventure and activity holidays in a little-known corner of the Southern French Alps, situated just on the edge of the Ecrins National Park - Champsaur, Valgaudemar and Dévoluy.
Contact Details:
Website: www.undiscoveredalps.com
Email: info@undiscoveredalps.com
Tel: 0845 009 8501 (UK) or +33 (0)6 77 36 29 42
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