Home Winter & Ski Ski Resort Reviews Alps Les Orres

Uncovering a well-hidden class act...

In the Southern French Alps between Gap and Briançon and all but hidden from view above the vast Lac de Serre-Ponçon, Les Orres catches significant snowfalls triggered by the nearby presence of mountain ranges including the Massif du Parpaillon. Although a long journey for skiers driving from the UK, airport transfers are much more rapid, particularly from budget flights into Genoble, Marseille, Turin and particularly Cuneo (via the Col de Larche). Being this far south means lots of sunny weather, while the altitude and surrounding topography ensure plenty of snow — which tends to stay put. For the majority of recreational skiers it’s the perfect combination, in fact.

Whatever you were expecting, there’s real drama here, both in terms of the scenery and particularly the skiing potential. Novices and intermediates will enjoy gentle lower, mid-mountain areas, which are served by modern, high-speed chairlifts with plenty of skier capacity. There are also delightful sheltered woodland trails, including some little-used cut-throughs.
Higher up the mountain, though, there's the option of some significantly steeper terrain. Previously the topmost descents were accessible only by difficult drag-lifts, but winter 2011/12 replaces two old drags with a brand new 1300m-long 4-seater chairlift, and adds two new Blue-graded pistes, permitting even less-experienced skiers to experience the awe-inspiring scenery surrounding the topmost sector.
Once up there you can combine genuinely panoramic views with a choice of long descents back through the tree-line – all the way down to 1650 if you so desire. It’s also the gateway to an extensive off-piste area.

Not one, but two. Les Orres’ origins as a purpose-built high-altitude ski area are reflected in the high-rise architecture of the original 1650 village, but in recent years, 1800 Bois-Méan, a much more traditionally-styled village has been taking shape above the old one. This offers higher comfort levels, more spacious accommodation and ski-in/ski-out convenience. Don’t write-off the original village, though, which works well, offers a good range of shops and services and has a definite buzz to it. There’s also free internet access via a WIFI network, which is due to be extended to the upper village. It’s a fun place.

While in absolute terms the groomed terrain may not appear that big, there’s plenty of varied terrain for all levels and interests, making this a very serious contender for most tastes. It’s therefore particularly suitable for families and mixed-ability groups. Non-skiers should also find plenty to do, including walking, snow-shoeing, snowmobiling, dog-sledding, ice-climbing and ice-skating, in addition to exploring an assortment of boutiques, bars, restaurants (there’s even a very stylish tea & coffee lounge overlooking the indoor ice-rink), etc. Not to mention massage, reflexology and sunbathing, of course.

After driving by too many times while en-route to somewhere else, we finally leave the road near Embrun and make the long climb up to Les Orres. When we arrive the snow is already lying deep, there’s more expected overnight and we just know that we should have come much sooner.

Skiing with the locals

The following morning we leave our chalet in Bois-Méan and set off down to Les Orres 1650, getting a feel for things calmly before the arrival of local weekend skiers keen to make the most of perfect late-season conditions. From here we ride Prélongis, followed by Fontaines, two of the resort’s three new high-speed 6-seater chairlifts which take us smoothly up to 2430m. Once above the tree-line we see much of the area laid out before us, and spend some time skiing the central Red and Blue graded pistes back to the Fontaines loading area. While the snow remains firm we then drop right down to Pramouton and then Champ Lacas, which at 1550m are as low as it gets in Les Orres.

The ski area is dominated by the assertive outline of Le Boussolenc (2822m)

Having got that out of our system, we head right back up — all the way, this time. Our diagonal snakes-and-ladders route across the ski area eventually brings us to the steep Marmottes drag-lift, which deposits us at the highest lift-served point at 2703m. The views from the ridge alone would justify the climb, with the added bonus of a choice of bracing Red-graded runs. We opt for Genépi followed by Grand Cabane, which between them reward us with an epic descent which throws in just about everything along the way. For distance fans, it would be simple to continue all the way back to the Champ Lacas but we have other plans, which take us all the way back up.

Away from it all on Grand Cabane, a long Red-graded scenic perimeter descent.

By now a few hours’ sunshine have softened the ice which had delayed the opening of the Boussolenc drag-lift, which is set to become history when it's replaced by a new 4-seater chairlift for the winter of 2011/12. For now, though, we’re among the first up the steep drag, which in early morning conditions is a tough one. We therefore get to the top (2660m) with a a certain degree of achievement. Our reward, apart from more panoramic views, is an exhilarating Red run below Le Boussolenc (2822m) to join Myrtilles, which takes us through the forest and back to Les Orres 1650.

A well-earned lunch break

By now we’re ready for lunch, so stop off at the Chalet des Fontaines to recharge our batteries.

Ecureuil snakes down through the upper reaches of the tree-line.

When we emerge later than planned our legs remind us what a long morning’s skiing we’ve had, and how much distance we’ve managed to cover. So from now on we relax and take things much easier, just cruising gently around the mountain in the company of the locals up for the day. All things considered, we have to say that this really would be quite a place to have on your doorstep.

© Roger Moss - updated 2011