Winter & Ski Home Ski Resort Reviews Alps La Clusaz

Where the locals choose to ski...

The Blue-graded run from Tête de Cabeau into the Merdassier sector.

In the Massif des Aravis in Haute-Savoie, close to both Annecy and Geneva, from which it has long attracted large numbers of recreational skiers. In addition to swift transfers from budget flights into Geneva, the location is one of the closest for those driving from the UK. Despite sitting at a relatively modest altitude, snowfalls tend to be reliable enough to ensure a long season. Just above the village is the famous Col des Aravis (gateway to the Val d'Arly) on the Route des Grandes-Alpes, while further up the valley is Le Grand Bornand - also included in the Aravis lift-pass.

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The Beauregard gondola which replaced the previous cable-car now provides rapid, comfortable access to some of the very best skiing at the start of the day.

Experienced skiers will opt for the Aravis lift-pass, which adds shuttle-linked le Grand Bornand to the mix, along with a subtle change of style and scenery. La Clusaz’s own skiing, though, is surprisingly varied. You’ll discover great natural beauty among the wooded flanks of both Manigod and Beauregard sectors (much of it Blue-graded, and a great place to start the day) and some steeper Reds nearby in the Etale and Aiguille areas. More challenging, gradient-wise, are the flanks of the Massif de Balme, which has a speed-skiing piste and whose snow quality holds up well later in the day. One particularly inspired feature is the provision of long return runs, from Green to Black, allowing skiers of all abilities to end the day in real style.

Lift-wise, the system works well and the signs of investment are clear enough. Here and there, though, you'll still encounter an important link served by a slow drag-lift, which won’t suit everyone.

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The distinctive outline of the Massif des Aravis adds a touch of drama to the sheltered setting it provides for the village of La Clusaz.

Despite being far from small, the main village has been careful to preserve its traditional Savoyard look and feel. The skyline is still dominated by the 18th-century belltower of the Eglise Sainte-Foy and a high proportion of visitor accommodation is in individual mountain chalet style. At nightfall the village looks a picture and there's plenty of choice for those in search of nightlife. At weekends, though, the influx of day-skiers can create traffic problems and fill public car-parking areas (most of which are payable). Frequent free shuttle-buses serve less-central park areas, however. For a dramatically simpler option in magical surroundings, consider a base away from things over in the Manigod or Merdassier areas (and pack snow-chains if you’ll be driving there).

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The Beauregard arrival area is a welcoming sight for debutants, and a point of departure for more experienced skiers.

Most levels of skier, with particular appeal for those looking for traditional character, both on and off the mountain, without compromising the skiing experience. The local mountains offer chocolate-box scenery, yet are big enough to provide some surprisingly long runs – along with some surprisingly steep ones, too. It’s a solid choice for mixed-ability groups and those improving their skill and fitness levels. Beginners have a safe, self-contained area just beside the Beauregard gondola, on the other side of which is the Jardin d’Enfants children’s area.

It’s been a long time since we skied here, and much has changed. The replacement of the Beauregard cable-car by a high-speed gondola has really improved access to the eastern terrain where we, and many others, like to begin our days’ skiing. The ride up provides a dramatic overview of the village and its unmistakable setting, and drops us at 1635m. Ahead is a large children’s area, while to the left and right tree-lined Blue or Black pistes head all the way back down again, but we take the gentle Blue-graded run over to the nearby Croix-Fry area. The landscapes, looking pristine after a long night of continuous snowfall, are a picture, and Croix-Fry sits among them like a tiny ski-village in a world of its own.

A fresh dusting of overnight snow extends all the way to the valley floor from the distant summits of the Etale Massif
and its neighbour L'Aiguille.

There’s another beginner area here, along with a selection of Red and Blue runs, but we take a lift up and over the Tête de Cabeau (1650m), where we pause briefly to take in the definitive overview of the Manigod valley before dropping down into the Merdassier sector. The change of mood is accentuated by the dramatic backdrop of the Massif de l’Etale looming some 2400m before us. The Col de Merdassier is a pleasant area, and we take the Chevreuil lift back up to the Tête de Cabeau to repeat the run over, before taking an early lunch-break and moving across to confront L’Etale. The majority of runs on this side of the valley are Red-graded and served by drag-lifts, the steepest of which, Le Grand Chamois, hauls us up to a vertigious viewpoint into a narrow adjoining valley.

Traditional chalet-style is very much in evidence, particularly overlooking the route up to the famous Col des Aravis.

On the bracing run back down we peel off to join a gentle, Green-graded cruise round to the Grands Laquais drag-lift for a run down the Blue-graded Les Joux piste. Once down we transfer to the modern Transval cable-car across to the Combe des Juments. The onward haul via two chairlifts up to L’Aiguille (2257m) puts us way above the popular Crête du Merle> area and allows us to pick up the Red-graded Fernuy piste for the long and exhillarating plunge to the foot of the La Balme gondola.

The snow below the 2477m Col de Balme holds up well in the afternoon, encouraging the kind of E-W progression which has brought us so far from our starting-point. And it’s worth the effort, as we discover while exploring, as much of the Red and Blue-graded terrain above us as time allows before we have to think of our return route. We could be sensible and take the relaxing La Motte return Green run back to the upper end of the village, but instead ride the Fernuy gondola up to Côte 2000. By now it’s getting late, and we emerge from the gondola into a bitter wind, determined to let our skis run on the succession of Red and Blue pistes which will take us back to where we began. It’s a long way, much further than we’d imagined, but doesn’t involve another lift – a reassuring thought at the end of the day.

If you’re not tempted by ex-rental ski bargains, then simply relax on the terrace and watch the world glide by.

By the time we’re cradling steaming mugs of vin-chaud back in a snug piste-side bar in the village we’re in no doubt that you can cover a lot of ground in a determined day’s skiing here. With the benefit of more time here we could have seen even more and explored each of the areas in much greater depth. Next time, maybe – for now we’re happy to settle for being hugely impressed.

© Roger Moss 2010

Coming at it from a different angle: L'Envers is the gentlest of return runs and will drop you
at the very foot of the Beauregard gondola.