THE FORET-BLANCHE OFFERS 180km of varied ski terrain for all levels in the Southern French Alps and accessible via flights into Lyon, Grenoble, Marseille, Nice and Turin. It would suit those in search of something slightly alternative. A solid and underrated option for families and those with an eye for value, there's also off-piste terrain above Vars, which has established quite a reputation among free-ride skiers. The villages of Risoul 1850 and Vars sit at either end of the ski area and are very different in style. Between them they should satisfy most tastes, with Risoul attracting younger (including Eastern European) skiers and Vars Sainte-Marie those preferring a quieter, more traditional experience. Somewhere between the two is the less than low-rise development of Vars Les Claux.

Approaching a ski destination in mild, sunny weather is unnerving, and our drive down from Briançon left us in no doubt that we were now in the Southern Alps. Then, as we passed the brooding fortress of Mont Dauphin and began the long climb to Risoul 1850, temperatures began to drop reassuringly.

Sure enough, by the time the village finally came into view the shadows were lengthening and the thermometer reading had plummeted. After settling into our apartment we gazed out onto a spectacular landscape of snowy mountains turned to pink by the setting sun. It was quite a welcome.

Crisp and dry

Next morning we set off to board a chairlift for an overview of the legendary Foret-Blanche. True to its name, the forest covers much of the mountainsides above Risoul, creating a sheltered, natural setting for the mostly gentle pistes which snake their way down among the larch plantations. Further up, of course, things became steeper, and our early start made for entertaining progress on the icy surface. Great fun.

Awe-inspiring scenery surrounds the liaison between Risoul and Vars.

Heading above the tree-line brought us to the 2571m summit of Razis, where the snow quality was more forgiving and the views were genuinely panoramic. Making a note to enjoy them sometime from the terrace of the snug, piste-side restaurant, we pointed our skis towards the looming vastness of a descent which would take us all the way down to Vars Sainte-Marie, a vertical drop of almost 1000 metres. The long cruise (around 8km, in fact) allowed us to take in something of our new surroundings, whose snowy central expanse contrasted sharply with the softer intimacy of the forests which were a trademark feature of Risoul. Eventually descend though the tree-line above Vars, convinced that it's always good to have a choice of terrain, particularly during a week of variable weather conditions.

The long haul

The subsequent two-stage climb up to La Mayt (2580m) gives us time to get things into clearer perspective, and to appreciate the beauty of it all displayed to perfection beneath a clear blue sky. After lunch we decide to stay high and enjoy perfect conditions in near-solitude around the Col de Crevoux (2530m), feeling as if we owned the mountain.

Paradise Found: the uncrowded red pistes below the Col de Crevoux.

We make the most of it until the slowly-sinking sun tells us it's time to think about our return runs. The liaison, a super-gentle blue scenic cruise almost hidden on the piste-map, drops us to something a little steeper. We go for a red which is steeper still, and provides a stimulating end to the perfect day. On second thoughts, that honour goes to the moment when we sense the first flakes which announced the arrival of a fresh snowfall. Next day promised to be even better.

© Roger Moss