LES CARROZ, HIGHEST OF THE VILLAGES in the Grand Massif, offers a friendly base for family skiers or mixed ability groups. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming, and a quick one-hour transfer from Geneva airport (or one of the easier drives to the Alps from the UK) makes the Grand Massif a popular choice with British skiers. The skiing is varied, with something for just about everyone, including the mile-hungry.
There’ s also extensive cross-country terrain, plus dog-sledding and guided snow-shoeing (including evening treks to a mountain chalet for a traditional Savoyard meal).

There’s something reassuring about heading to one of the larger ski areas, not least since the extent and variety of ski terrain on offer is usually backed up by plenty of options when trying to decide exactly where to base yourself. Although we know the Grand Massif well, the terrain above Les Carroz is less familiar to us, a situation which we don’t need too much encouragement to remedy.

After picking up lift-passes we head cautiously to the car parking area to don boots and goggles for what promises to be an interesting day. From the vantage-point of the gondola lift it’s clear that visibility is going to be an issue, so we elect to stay below the tree-line.

White lines

Gliding off into the unkown brings an element of adventure heightened by the near-silence of our progress. Where are all the other skiers? If they’re out there somewhere we can’t see or hear them, but there’s plenty to conentrate upon.

Things finally open up after lunch, and we set off with renewed confidence, making our way around the local terrain above Les Carroz and Morillon. The fun continues even after the lifts have closed, as there’s fresh snow all the way back down to the car park.

Next day finds us out early and keen to head over to Flaine. The better conditions have brought out more skiers, but there are no real queues for the lifts and we make rapid progress. By the final drop into Flaine Forum the number of skiers with the same idea has increased dramatically, but once down everyone spreads themselves out once again.

With plenty of time before we need to think about a lunch break we take the Grand Platières gondola to the highest point in the Massif (2480m), and enjoy a couple of bracing runs back down on Faust, one of our favourite reds. After lunch we emerge from the restaurant to find conditions deteriorating, so before visibility clamps down we start to make our way back to ‘our’ side of the mountain. Aided by the 8-seater Grand Vans high-speed chairlift and a couple of gun-barrel blues, we're amazed how rapid the return is accomplished.

Next morning, in near-perfect conditions, we retrace our tracks over to Flaine, this time taking the Aup de Veran gondola and exploring the possibilities below the Tete des Lindars (2561m). The high point here also turns out to be the lowest, the entertaining red-graded Célestine woodland run which swoops through the trees and back into the village.

Our final days in Les Carroz see further good weather before the onset of more heavy and sustained snowfalls, adding a magical transformation to the tree-lined landscapes and giving everyone as much powder as they can handle (and for some rather more). The sheltered terrain once again proves its worth, and we have a great time floating around the gladed pistes and barreling down the skier-cross run beyond the Gron chairlift. The challenge here is not to get around at speed without spinning off, but to do it all without losing concentration due to laughter - both your own, and among those following. Great fun.

We leave a snowy Les Carroz with heavy hearts, but a sackfull of happy memories - and consoled by the certain knowlege that we’ll be returning.

© Roger Moss