If you were starting to think that all the real motoring adventures were long past, think again; the legendary Route des Grandes Alpes runs from the shores of Lac Léman all the way down to the balmy Côte d’Azur, a total distance of 684km. And with so much to see en route some travellers elect to spread the journey over several visits, savouring the experience and exploring things in much more depth.

Whichever way you choose, you’ll discover genuinely breathtaking scenery, plus a wealth of places you would otherwise never get to see. Having driven every inch of the Route ourselves, we can promise you that following Europe’s touring itinerary par excellence is an experience which you'll never forget.

Stage One: from Lac Léman to the Beaufortain

The time-honoured gateway to the Route is Thonon-les-Bains, on the southern shores of Lac Léman (a.k.a. Lake Geneva), which retains hints of lingering gentility, particularly during regular visits from the celebrated Belle-Epoque paddle steamers which still ply the clear waters of the great lake. It’s also the capital of the French portion of the historic Chablais region, the remainder of which lies across the Swiss border. From Thonon we follow the D902, whose tortuous course propels us within minutes into the Gorges de la Dranse, to wind our way through a series of wooded climbs punctuated by blind, craggy bends, as the river tumbles energetically below the roadside.

Up among the high mountain pastures

Once the curves finally begin to ease we pass a signpost for the first essential detour for travellers on the Route: the beautiful Val d’Abondance, long renowned for its AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) cheeses and now also deservedly popular with family and back-to-nature skiers. From now on things begin to open up, as the road straightens for the run into Morzine. Looking like the classic, scaled-up mountain village, the town has a distinct air of prosperity, thanks to its location at the very heart of the huge Portes du Soleil winter sports area. Nearby lies the beautiful Lac de Montriond, a convenient point of access for the local network of mountain footpaths (which in winter serve as cross-country or ski-de-fond pistes), and the perfect setting for an excellent restaurant.

The Route, however, passes the ski station of Les Gets, before making the long winding descent into Cluzes, which has direct access points to the A40 autoroute. Following the Scionzier (rather than Chamonix) road will guide you safely through the town and onto the long climb to the 1613m Col de la Colombière. Once safely over, the road falls through a series of hairpins towards the village of le Chinaillon.  The panoramic views take in a picture postcard landscape dotted with cheerful mountain chalets, dwarfed by the distinctive jagged spine of the Massif des Aravis (the ‘s’ remains silent). Further on, at le Grand Bornand, signs for local Reblochon cheese appear, along with ski lifts. Skiing here has long been a way of life and the present domain is focused around La Clusaz, one of the prettiest of all the medium-size ski villages.

Through Secret Valleys

Beyond La Clusaz the road launches skywards once again, topping off at the 1486m Col des Aravis. whose gift-shops offer local crafts, sheep fleeces, etc., to passing visitors. From here we plunge headlong into the Val d’Arrondine via more hairpins and a short tunnel cut into the rocks. Even compared to La Clusaz it’s a secret world, with tiny villages tucked into the steep sides of the valley. La Giettaz will soon be welcoming skiers and other winter visitors, but for now it’s a peaceful, pastoral idyll, its rich green pastures punctuated here and there by ancient, sun-bleached mountain chalets and seasonal stabs of fiery red and yellow foliage. Further down lies the Val d’Arly, where villages like Flumet, Notre-Dame de Bellecombe and Praz-sur-Arly (not to mention Megêve) also offer winter sports facilities close to the snow-capped peaks of the Mont Blanc massif.

Notre-Dame de Bellecombe announces the expanding Espace Diamant ski area, and after cresting the Col des Saisies (1650m) we enter the village of Les Saisies, whose gentle terrain and dependable snow cover has made the area deservedly popular with family skiers. We’re now in the Beaufortain, entering the historic village of Hauteluce, clustered around the Italianate onion spire of its 16th Century Baroque church. The views across the valley are accompanied by the distant tinkling of bells worn by the distinctive brown Tarine cattle whose milk produces the illustrious AOC Beaufort cheese. Beaufort-sur-Doron’ s Cooperative Laitière offers visitors guided tours (and sells produce at wholesale prices), and the historic town is also well worth exploring.

Into the Beaufortain

There’s little doubt that the Beaufortain is one of the undiscovered treasures of France, a point underlined as we leave it on the invigorating ascent to the shimmering Lac de Roselend and the craggy landscapes of the Cormet de Roselend (1967m). This section of road has only been accessible since 1970, and all around lie simple gravel tracks leading to the remote summer pastures in which dairy cattle graze contentedly. Their annual migration from the valley floor to the high alpages continues the age-old ritual of transhumance, and an AOC Beaufort Alpages fermier cheese, like the Route itself, is simply unforgettable.

Stage Two: From the Beaufortain down to Briançon.