Whichever way you look at it, Europe’s second highest town (after Davos) is just extraordinary. Perched like an eyrie and surmounted by a brooding military citadel, Briançon’s historic upper town or Vieille Ville looks and feels like nowhere else, particularly when suddenly and dramatically transformed by the first snows of winter. This really is living on a higher plane.

From Roman times (when it was known as Brigantium) its siting, at the meeting point of five river valleys and two strategic routes, made it an important stronghold. The development of artillery, however, made it vulnerable to attack from the even higher surrounding peaks flanking the Franco-Italian border, so three defensive fortresses were constructed during the late 17th/early 18th Centuries on the summits which posed the greatest threats.

L-R: Limited space within the ramparts encouraged multi-story construction; The high-altitude town is enfolded by the even higher surrounding peaks.

Most of the upper town - often referred locally to as the Cité Vauban - lies within a system of defensive ramparts designed by the celebrated French military engineer, yet its lofty setting overcomes any sensation of oppressive enclosure. In fact, there’s a real feeling of exhilaration which comes from just being here, and which climaxes at the panoramic viewpoint above the Fort du Château.

**Ski the Grand Serre Che**
Widely known for its good value, extensive ski area, excellent off piste and tree skiing, the resort of Serre Chevalier has three well linked main villages: Monêtier les Bains, Villeneuve and Chantemerle. See our ski holiday selection for Serre Chevalier by visiting the MountainPassions Ski Holidays website.

The narrow streets, tall ochre façades and brightly-painted sundials (not to mention around 300 days of sunshine per year) create an Italianate mood not unlike those of Menton or Vieux Nice. There’s even a genuine Italian coffee-shop and patisserie which offers possibly the ultimate chocolat-chaud. Add the location, between the ski areas of Serre-Chevalier and Montgenèvre, and it’s hardly surprising that Briançon attracts plenty of visitors from across the border including second-home buyers from Turin.

L-R: Sculptures on the Renaissance façade of la Maison Jean Prat; Children still play safely in the Vielle Ville’s otherwise calm cobbled streets.

Late evening finds the atmospheric streets of the upper town almost deserted.