Transhumance... à Cheval’Ski 

It’s mid November and the Alpes-Maritimes are still on the lookout for some white stuff. We hear that glamorous resorts such as La Clusaz have already opened their doors (at least partially) for the season. Blame global warming or whatever you like, but our one and only short-lived snow dump so far was at the end of September.

But it led to some magic times on the Transhumance Trail. The autumn ‘transhumance’ finds livestock such as sheep, cattle, goats or horses descending from high pastures, as shepherds herd their beasts to take advantage of the best natural grazing lower down. It is a practice that has taken place throughout the world for many centuries.

As the departure date loomed large, it seemed that we would soon be struck by the first serious weather front for months. We live here and fortunately we have the gear (thanks, Paramo) but it was cold at 1700m as we prepared to leave Le Boréon. However, nothing could have prepared us for the steep climb, horses panting, snow ‘slooping’ down our necks as we reached one of the first cols of the day. What a transformation by the end of the afternoon at the 2300m Bas de Prals, where a dramatic line of clouds seemed to hover above the clear blue waters of the Mediterranean in the distance. We dropped down to the welcome comforts of the gîte in the Gordolasque.

Day Two was bright and cold and again a transformation. We rode in through sheep grazing on rich and remarkably dry pastures and enjoyed a relaxed lunch in the sun. Rain may have dampened our bodies but not our spirits as we approached Piera Cava, our goal for the night. After a quick restorative shower we were ready for the splendid catering and relaxed hospitality of Jean-Luc and Karine.

The final day saw the return of an Indian summer and a great day was spent in the Luceram area, enjoying the sun on our backs and the pleasure of galloping through forestry paths, before descending to Sainte-Agnès. The highest coastal village in Europe, this was a fine place for the horses to enjoy their well deserved rest, and for the riders to plan their next trip. Georges and his team at the Hotel Saint-Yves are evidently well used to the sight of hungry horse-folk. Aaah... the joys of a healthy appetite – thank you Denis for a great trip!

Text and pictures by Liz Lord from Spacebetween

Join the Transhumance Trail
Confident horseriders who enjoy an adventure can join the transhumance trail.

Information:
Denis Longfellow: 0033 (0)6 22 29 58 86
Gîte d’Etape, Gordolasque: 0033 (0)4 93 03 43 55
Peira Cava Gîte: 0033 (0)4 93 91 57 97
E-mail: karine.lebrun@cegetel.net
Hotel Saint Yves: 0033 (0)4 93 36 91 45
Spacebetween: 0033 (0)4 93 03 48 57
E-mail: contact@spacebetween.co.uk